Across the Frontera | Central America

We are often asked how smooth the border crossing process is with a motorcycle. After eight border crossings we are convinced that if you have time and the proper paperwork, it is easy. Even if there are steps missed and forms unfilled prior to arrival. You can find many detailed accounts of the exact process required at each border, including pictures and GPS coordinates for the official buildings. In our opinion, reading these articles are a great way to build an expectation, and induce a splitting headache from the information overload. Our method, is to make sure we have the documents required (same for every border), and show up. However, if you’re the type of person who needs a step by step, WikiOverland is a great resource. Or one of the many blogs on Horizons Unlimited.

Required documents:
– Passport
– Vehicle Registration/Proof of Ownership (for British Colombia, Canada this is one and the same)
– Drivers Licence
– Licence Plate (peel your stickers off if there expired)

Basic process:
1. You legally exit the country through immigration (passport stamp).
2. You cancel the temporary import permit for your motorcycle at customs.
3. Upon driving over “the line” you may have your vehicle fumigated.
4. You legally enter the new country through immigration (passport stamp).
5. You acquire a temporary import permit at customs.
6. Buy temporary insurance (not needed in every country).

Helpful Tips:
– Plan for a morning arrival, unless you like waiting longer than necessary.
– Have patience.
– Try to have 4-5 copies of all the required documents (sometimes needed, sometimes not).
– Avoid the “helpers,” they are not needed and will cost a fortune. If you are not sure ask if they are official, and if they want money. You can be stuck with paying hundreds of dollars if you use a helper. Don’t hand your documents to anyone until your sure. (We’ve never used a helper).
– Confirm you have your passport stamped and all information on your import permit correct before leaving an office.
– Get receipts.
– Keep all paperwork.
– We did not have our motorcycle searched once through any of the borders. To be safe, make sure you’re not accidently trying to smuggle anything illegal. The most overlooked culprit is fruit, veggies, and animal products.

Money Exchangers:
We have been told many times to avoid money changers at the border. We disagree. If you have a currency exchange app on your phone you can confirm your rate on the spot. We have found that it is a minimal difference to the bank rate. There are two benefits to this. First, you’ll likely need local currency before you can find a bank. Second, these guys want your business. If you tell them you’ll change your money after the entry or exit process, you just acquired yourself a free helper. They are eager to show you which buildings to visit in which order.

MEXICO – GUATEMALA (Cuauhtémoc – La Mesilla)
This being our first Central American border crossing, we researched it to death. The pre-planning was more work than actually crossing the border.
Total Time: 1hr 45min


GUATEMALA – BELIZE (Melchor de Mencos – Benque Viejo del Carmen)
Simple. We were able to skip cancelling our Guatemala import permit because we would be returning in a week. The challenge of this border was having to scarf down the carrots and bananas we forgot about before anyone saw them.
Total Time: 1hr 30min

BELIZE – GUATEMALA (Benque Viejo del Carmen – Melchor de Mencos)
Nice and quick on this one because we still had our Guatemalan import permit.
Total Time: 30 min

GUATEMALA – EL SALVADOR (San Cristobal – Piedra Azules)
We had to wait for the official to finish his breakfast, otherwise a quick crossing. We were sad to learn that there is no passport stamp issued for El Salvador.
Total Time: 1hr 25min


EL SALVADOR – HONDURAS (Pequín – Marcala)
We crossed at a small mountain post, the process was the same as normal but the Honduran officials did not issue a temporary import permit. They wrote the bike information down in a book and waved us through. In hindsight, we should have taken a picture of the book. Use this crossing at your own risk.
Total Time: 30 min

HONDURAS – NICARAGUA (Las Manos – El Paraiso)
This would be the biggest challenge yet. We had trouble leaving Honduras because we had no import permit to cancel. After explaining the situation, and some pleading with the boss at customs, they let us leave. They said in the future if we are told by an official that an import permit is not required, we should take pictures of what they write down for proof. On the Nicaragua side, you are now required to send an entry application seven days prior to arrival. I sent blank copies. It was a long wait getting that sorted out.
Total time: 4hr 15min

NICARAGUA – COSTA RICA (Las Tablillas – Los Chiles)
We did not see one other person at this border, but the Nicaraguan customs put our licence plate and bike registration numbers in the wrong lines on our import permit. We missed this when confirming the document. Most people would see this as an obvious error; the numbers are all correct, the locations are just switched. But we had more convincing to do than that, they were not certain that this motorcycle belonged to us.
Total time: 1hr 45min

COSTA RICA – PANAMA (Sixaola – Guabito)
This border was slightly corrupt. We paid the bike fumigation, and never received it. We were advised to walk back into Costa Rica to buy Panamanian insurance, only to be told we have to buy it on the Panama side (approx 1/2km each way). The insurance lady charged us thirty dollars, when the form clearly stated fifteen. We pointed this out, but there was only one other option: go back to Costa Rica.
Total time: 1hr 35min

2 comments

  1. Athir Nuaimi says:

    Super helpful. Border crossings are one of the things I worry about the most. Have heard so many stories. Sounds like the lesson is just to be prepared with your docs and carefully check everything as you go through the process. Thanks for sharing your experiences

    • adventurehaks says:

      Hi Athir, I am happy to hear you found this helpful. We were concerned about what border crossings would be like too. There is a lot of scary stories out there. Fortunately we haven’t had too many issues and now border crossings just feel like another day instead of something to be worried about. Thanks for reading!

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